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The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon at the V&A

Writer: Richard
Richard
59 minutes ago
4 min read

A classic of British fashion takes centre stage at the Victoria and Albert Museum this autumn, as the V&A and Burberry celebrate the remarkable history of the Burberry trench coat.

Opening at V&A South Kensington on 21 September 2026, The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon brings together rarely seen objects from the Burberry Archive and the museum’s own collection. The free display marks the 170th anniversary of Burberry and explores how a practical item of protective clothing became one of the most recognisable designs in the world.

Running until 3 January 2027, the exhibition offers an opportunity to discover the story behind a garment that has survived changing fashions while retaining its distinctive British identity.

Framed sepia portrait of an elderly bearded man in a dark suit, signed Thomas Burke, mounted on a warm wooden wall.
Thomas Burberry,

From practical clothing to fashion icon, the Burberry Trench


The story begins with Thomas Burberry, who founded the company in 1856. His development of cotton gabardine in 1879 transformed the possibilities of protective clothing.

Hard-wearing, weather-resistant and more comfortable than many existing waterproof materials, gabardine helped establish Burberry as a specialist in practical outerwear. The material was used to create clothing for explorers, travellers and military personnel before becoming closely associated with the trench coat.

Although originally valued for its practicality, the coat gradually moved beyond its military and functional beginnings. Its simple shape, recognisable detailing and ability to adapt to different styles helped it become an enduring part of British fashion heritage.

Over the decades, the trench coat has appeared on film stars, fashion designers, public figures and generations of travellers. Few garments have moved so successfully between military history, cinema, popular culture and high fashion.

Mannequin in a museum display wears a cream trench coat dress against a dark backdrop, with a small exhibit label nearby.
Trench Ballgown

The craftsmanship behind the coat

A central section of the display focuses on the skilled craftsmanship and carefully considered details that make the Burberry trench so distinctive.

Visitors will be able to look more closely at familiar features including the storm flap, detachable throat latch, hand-finished collar and the famous Burberry Check lining.

These details were not originally included simply for decoration. Each had a practical role, helping to provide protection against wind, rain and difficult weather conditions. Together, they demonstrate how thoughtful design can unite function and style.

This attention to construction is an important part of the coat’s longevity. While colours, materials and proportions may change, the essential character of the Burberry trench remains instantly recognisable.

Museum display of a beige Burberry trench coat with plaid lining, framed photos, and accessories in a dim glass case.
Burberry Trench coat

Rare objects from the Burberry Archive

The exhibition includes material from the Burberry Archive that has seldom, and in some cases never, been shown publicly.

Among the highlights are early 20th-century catalogues and a Burberry trench coat worn by British fashion designer Hardy Amies. These historic objects help illustrate how the company promoted its clothing and how the trench became embedded in British cultural life.

Archive collections play an important role in preserving the history of fashion. Garments, drawings, catalogues and advertising materials can reveal changing attitudes towards travel, work, status and personal identity.

By opening parts of its archive to the public, Burberry is allowing visitors to look beyond the familiar brand name and explore the people, skills and design decisions behind it.

Black Burberry London label patches arranged on tan paper, featuring white logos and text.
The BurryBerry label

Reinventing a British classic

The final part of the display turns from history to creativity.

Nineteen runway looks from the past two and a half decades show how Burberry’s creative directors have repeatedly reinterpreted the trench coat. These include designs created under Christopher Bailey and the company’s current Chief Creative Officer, Daniel Lee.

The selection demonstrates how a heritage design can continue to evolve without losing its identity. Changes in cut, fabric, colour and presentation have allowed new generations of designers to respond to contemporary fashion while respecting the coat’s origins.

The gallery itself will also reflect the trench coat’s relationship with the British climate. Inspired by John Constable’s painting of Hampstead Heath in the V&A collection, a ceiling of illuminated clouds will evoke the unpredictable weather for which the coat was originally designed.

Museum display of a mannequin in a knitted hat and coat beside a small duck figurine, with a framed clock plaque behind.
Exhibiton cases

A historic setting within the V&A

The exhibition is being presented in the V&A’s rarely seen Prince Consort Gallery. Its mahogany display cabinets once housed examples from the museum’s textile collection, making it a particularly appropriate setting for an exhibition devoted to fabric, fashion and craftsmanship.

The location adds another layer to the visitor experience. It connects Burberry’s commercial and design history with the V&A’s wider role in collecting and preserving objects that tell the story of British creativity.

The exhibition also celebrates the long-standing relationship between two important names in British fashion. Both Burberry and the V&A are concerned not only with preserving heritage but with using historic collections to inspire future designers and makers.

Looking towards The Burberry Gallery

The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon opens ahead of another significant development at the V&A.

In autumn 2028, the museum is expected to open The Burberry Gallery as part of a major transformation of its permanent fashion galleries. Supported by Burberry through a multi-year partnership, the redesigned gallery will provide a new space in which visitors can explore fashion history and contemporary design.

For now, this smaller exhibition provides a fascinating introduction to that partnership—and to the history of a garment that has become much more than a practical coat.

For visitors interested in fashion heritage, British design, craftsmanship or the relationship between historic brands and museums, the display offers an appealing reason to visit South Kensington.

Visitor information

Exhibition: The Burberry Trench: Crafting an IconLocation: Prince Consort Gallery, V&A South Kensington, LondonDates: 21 September 2026–3 January 2027Admission: FreeFurther information: Check the V&A website for opening hours and visitor details.


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